Top Climbs in Squamish
The ultimate tick list for routes climbs around Squamish, BC.
- Chief Summit Routes
The easiest route to the summit of the Chief. It takes a significant variation to the Squamish Buttress, wild and unique positioning above the South Gulley make this a memorable outing. Combine with Calculas and Memorial Cracks for the ultimate 14 pitch 5.9 !
Pioneered in 2010 by Sonnie Trotter and friends.
This is, arguably, the easiest route to the summit of the Chief. It starts on the Apron, crosses the South Gully and then follows a myriad of slab, face and crack pitches to the top. It is popular and very pleasant.
This Fred Becky classic is most people’s first climb to the summit of the Chief and starts on an Apron route. The Buttress has lots of moderate terrain and a final, short but steep 5.10 corner. The summit views are fantastic!
This excellent and adventurous climb is a step up from the Squamish Buttress. There are four pitches of 5.10 and the route is longer.
A new multi pitch line in the Western Dihedrals. This is the easiest route to breach the West Face of the Chief.
A world-class climb and a Squamish icon. The rock is clean and the exposure exhilarating! A “don’t-miss” for the grade.
A recent addition to the routes on the Chief and a good one at that. Lots of steep climbing up cracks, faces and arêtes.
Many pitches of 5.10 and steep 5.11 dihedrals capped by the spectacular “Diesel Overhang”. Rivals the Grand Wall for stature.
- Classic Multi Pitch Routes
This beautiful five pitch line feature incredibly varied climbing in a majestic setting beside the spectacular Shannon Falls.
A wonderful introduction to multi-pitch climbing. Many low-angle friction pitches that weave around the South Apron.
The next step up from Banana Peel climbs a long corner system on the Apron with lots of enjoyable laybacking. Incredibly popular!
A fine compliment to Diedre takes two very exposed pitches up the Grand Wall. Tricky low-angle face climbing with a rappel descent.
This crackline hugs the north edge of the Apron and is characterized by a wide section down low and a finger crack up higher.
This unique climb is located in the Cheakamus Canyon above the foaming river water. Approach by rappel and climb out in short pitches.
A great companion route to Star Chek. Two interesting face pitches lead to great views of the Tantalus Range.
Like Diedre, but more technical. Follow thin corner cracks up the Apron with a few tricky 5.9 cruxes. A much sought after “tick”…
Follow wide hand and fist cracks up the North Apron. More strenuous than the other Apron routes but no less appealing.
An excellent four-pitch crack climb in the Smoke Bluffs. Varied pitches and a great short day objective.
An interesting climb with a few tricky crack pitches. Steeper than the Apron and a more peaceful setting on the “Slhanny”.
An excellent, physical climb that follows steep corner cracks. High quality, physical corner climbing in a shaded gully.
One of the best additions to Squamish in the last decade. This route features wild steep crack climbing that is easier than it first appears.
A great four pitch line is a good entrance to multi pitch 5.10. The bulletproof, glacier carved granite is some of the best stone in Squamish.
A classic outing with big ambience. Although primarily crack and corner climbing this route requires more finesse than brawn.
This face and crack route is definitely worth the hour-long approach. It is sunny, peaceful, scenic and the climbing is superb.
A shortened version of the Grand Wall can end at the top of the fabulous Split Pillar pitch. Remarkable climbing with a rappel descent.
Rarely considered, this climb has some really excellent crack pitches and the setting is quiet and away from the masses.
A fine route in the secluded North Walls. The wild final pitch of steep crack climbing is one of the best of its grade.
Three completely different pitches characterize this climb. Crack, face and slab take you to a great view of Howe Sound.
A very popular objective. Featuring varied crack and face climbing, the offwidth roof is much easier than it appears. Continuing up Angels Crest makes the longest (17 pitches) 5.10 outting on the Chief.
A step up from Birds of Prey or a great combination for a full day! Again, stellar crack climbing and a final overhanging pitch that is without comparison.
Three completely different pitches characterize this climb. Crack, face and slab take you to a great view of Howe Sound.
If technical slab intrigues you then you won’t want to miss Cruel Shoes. Considered one of the best routes of this type in Squamish.
Although graded lower than the Planet, the second pitch on this climb is probably harder for most. Steep, overhanging groove climbing will have you sweating on the second pitch. Spectacular.
One of the “hard” classics in Squamish follows a steep dihedral up the Sheriff’s Badge. Very strenuous climbing.
- Single Pitch Classics
A hidden finger-crack splitter in the Bluffs.
A 35m splitter hand-crack beside the roaring Shannon Falls.
A 50m pitch of pleasant crack climbing above the ocean.
A splitter finger and hand crack. Great for learning technique.
Great overhanging face climbing on jugs
Excellent hand jams and finger locks.
A superb layback crack that starts the Grand Wall route.
A five-star, 50m single pitch finger crack.